THE ORIGIN OF CEVICHE

Ceviche (also spelled as cebiche or seviche) is citrus-marinated seafood. Its true birthplace is unknown; some believe the dish to have originated in Polynesia, while others claim that it was developed by the Spanish (who introduced it into Latin America along with citrus fruits such as the lime, lemon or bitter orange). Still others claim it originated along the coasts of Peru and Southern Ecuador before the arrival of the Spanish. If such is the case, another acidic fruit—such as Banana passion fruit—must have been used to prepare the dish, as citrus fruits were introduced into the Americas by the Spanish. Many other countries in Latin America have adopted it, with variations. Both fish and shellfish can be used in the preparation of ceviche.

The fact that every former Spanish colony has its own version of ceviche gives credibility to the idea that this dish was introduced by the Spanish. It is well known that every ship from Spain was well stocked with citrus fruits in order to prevent scurvy on the long voyages from Spain to America. During these long voyages it may have become popular to “cook” fresh fish using citric juices, as it was a quick and easy way to prepare food.

Those who argue for a Polynesian origin believe that the Spanish encountered the dish during their voyages in the Polynesian islands. Afterwards, the dish quickly caught on among Spanish sailors; and gradually the dish spread throughout the Spanish colonial empire, eventually developing into the different varieties encountered today.
Those who argue for a Peruvian or Ecuadorian origin claim that the Andean natives used Banana passion fruit before the arrival of the Spanish to prepare ceviche. When the Spanish introduced citric fruits, the natives apparently preferred the taste and began to use limes and lemon to prepare their fish.

Every Latin American country has given ceviche its own touch of individuality by adding its own particular garnishes. In Panama, ceviche is served with little pastry shells called “canastitas.” In Peru, it is served with slices of cold sweet potatoes or corn-on-the-cob. In Ecuador, it is accompanied by corn nuts, or fried green plantains or thinly sliced plantains (plantain chips) called “chifles”. It is also served in a large crystal bowl with the guests helping themselves by spearing it with toothpicks.

A Brief History of “Fish and Chips”

In the United Kingdom, fish and chips became a cheap food popular among the working classes with the rapid development of trawl fishing in the North Sea in the second half of the nineteenth century. In 1860, the first fish and chip shop was opened in London by Jewish proprietor Joseph Malin who married together “fish fried in the Jewish fashion” with chips.

Deep-fried “chips” (slices or pieces of potato) as a dish, may have first appeared in Britain in about the same period: the Oxford English Dictionary (OED) notes its earliest usage of “chips” in the mention of Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities (published in 1859): “Husky chips of potatoes, fried with some reluctant drops of oil”. (Note that Belgian tradition, as recorded in a manuscript of 1781, dates the frying of potatoes carved into the shape of fish back at least as far as 1680.)

The modern fish-and-chip shop (“chippy” or “chipper” in modern British slang) originated in the United Kingdom, although outlets selling fried food occurred commonly throughout Europe. According to one story, fried-potato shops spreading south from Scotland merged with fried-fish shops spreading from southern England. Early fish-and-chip shops had only very basic facilities. Usually these consisted principally of a large cauldron of cooking-fat, heated by a coal fire. Insanitary by modern standards, such establishments also emitted a smell associated with frying, which led to the authorities classifying fish-and-chip supply as an “offensive trade”, a stigma retained until the interwar period. The industry overcame this reputation during World War II due to fish and chips remaining as one of the few foods in the United Kingdom not subject to rationing.

In the United Kingdom and Ireland, the Fish Labeling Regulations 2003 enact directive 2065/2001/EC, which generally means that “fish” must be sold with the particular species named; so “cod and chips” not “fish and chips”. The Food Standards Agency guidance excludes caterers from this; but several local Trading Standards authorities and others do say it cannot be sold merely as “fish and chips”.

Visit the Recipe section of my blog to learn a upscale version of this marvelous fried dish!